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John McComb is a power quality expert, helping ensure consistent, reliable electricity for our customers.
Your questions on energy-related topics can be submitted anytime to our Ask the Energy Expert blog. Just click here to submit your question, and if chosen, it will be answered here
By John McComb
Asked on: July 24, 2012 by Benjamin F., Margate
What should I use for surge protection for my appliances?
Thanks for your question, Benjamin. FPL strives to provide highly reliable and consistent electric power. However, energy surges do sometimes occur. Surges are extremely high, short-lived spikes in voltage caused by lightning or power line damage.
Selecting the right surge protection can save your appliances and electronics from serious damage. Surge protectors redirect excess energy and prevent most of it from reaching your equipment. Surge protectors have a limited ability to absorb energy. That’s why it’s important to select a surge protector with the right features and ratings to match the equipment you want to protect.
FPL recommends a combination of inside and outside protection products:
• Outside surge protectors, often called surge arrestors, can be installed on the electric meter, by your utility, or breaker box, by a licensed electrician, to protect large appliances from being damaged by power surges. Permanently mounted surge arrestors should only be installed by qualified, licensed electrical contractors.
• In addition to a surge arrestor, inside plug-in surge protectors are important for equipment that communicates, such as computers, modems, cordless phones and burglar alarms.
Surge protectors can be purchased at most electronic retailers. They protect only the devices that are plugged in to them and can range in price and effectiveness.
When buying a surge protector, look for the following features:
o UL 1449 3rd edition listing: This ensures that the device meets industry standards. (If the item is only labeled, “UL,” it is not a surge protector, only a power strip.)
o Clamping voltage: The lower the number, the better. The lowest clamping voltage recognized by UL is 330 volts or .33 kilovolts.
o Amperage rating: This represents the amount of energy the unit absorbs. The higher, the better.
o Alarm or light: These let you know that the unit is working.
I hope this helps you choose the right surge protection for you.
Posted in: Ask the Expert, Ensuring Reliability, Featured Posts
DISCLAIMER:
FPL reserves the right to edit any user submissions to "Ask the Energy Expert" for brevity or clarity. Publication of readers' questions or comments is at the sole discretion of FPL.
Comments [35]
This is a great tip. So many people do not know the difference between a surge protector and a power strip. I had a friend once, who had their desktop computer plugged into a power strip, thinking it was also a surge protector.
Lightning storm occurred, a power surge.. and… well, no more desktop computer.
The concept of this post is really very unique. We can learn a lot from this post.
Excellent advice. Will check my protectors for the provided information.
Thank you
Another option is surge protectors that are installed in the main panel where circuit breakers are usually located. You’ll need 2, one for each 110V ‘leg’. Naturally you’ll need two empty slots in the panel as well.
Hello,
Good answer on the surge protection. One should also mention Uninterruptible Power Supplies (UPS) for computers. Living in such a lightning prone area like Florida, a UPS is a good investment for the computer, as it can protect against varying voltages, spikes or brownouts, which can damage computers.
Hi John. Thanks for the clear, brief and yet thorough explanation about surges. I had never read one before, with industry standards’ specifications and so. I will check my own appliances to be adequately protected for incoming storms (when surges are most likely to occur).
Thanks again and have a good weekend.
You omitted the surge supressors that mount directly into the circuit breaker panel ….they are effective, reliable and economical and as easy to install as a standard circuit breaker. They come in ratings to fit most homes. Common models are made by Siemens (formerly Allen-Bradley) and readily available at most electrical supply stores.
Pictures of both protector and arrestor would have been a nice touch. Also picture of labels and data plate information would have been even better.
Otherwise great blog.
Regards, Joe M.
You forgot to mention a UPS battery backup which is preferred over a standard power strip surge protector as it protects against brownouts and regulates line voltage better. Also, you should point out that a 33 volt clamping voltage is only for low voltage equipment only. It is not suitable for line voltage equipment (i.e. anything that plugs into a wall socket) because that operates in the 110-120 VAC range.
Another thing that noone ever mentions is that no surge protector is going to be 100% effective against a direct lightning strike. Southern and Central Florida is the lightning capital of the USA. Alarms are particularly suceptible to surges as they have multiple points of entry such as circuit wiring, phone lines, AC power, etc. a typical consumer device may give limited protection on the AC side, but leave other areas unprotected.
For residential households, my advice is to leave as many appliances unplugged as possible when not in use and to unplug the others via a common power strip when you see the dark clouds forming on the horizon.
Mr. McComb’s reply did not address joule capacity – the amount of surge energy a supressor can absorb. Also, the amperage rating on most consumer electronics surge supressors is the amount of current the supressor can deliver to its intended load; not the amount it can absorb from a surge.
I think there is a typo in the sentence “The lowest clamping voltage recognized by UL is 33 volts or .33 kilovolts.”
.33 kilovolts is 330 volts not 33 volts
Great topic. As a “long time” (and long retired) Service Rep.” in the field and thence a regional Operator in Power Control for the former Niagara Mohawk (now National Grid) in northern NY, I can attest that the average customer has little knowledge of the devices, but a great deal of expensive equipment in the normal home or office that needs protection from spikes and surges. Surge suppressors and even more so, compact UPS systems, are a boon to the average homeowner.
So far, I have been impressed with FPL’s service and rates, let alone the fact that I’ve never been “OUT” for any length of time!
This is perfect. Just asked my son, an IT, for his input and you provided more specific information.
Thank you.
I recently replaced both toilets in my home to low flow toilets. Has multiple advantages. First one of the most neglected plumbing parts in any home is the ballcock or flapper in the toilet which causes untold amounts of waste everyday. Secondly, it saves water. I know there are skeptics out there that say low low rate toilets do not flush well. Not true. Get a decent toilet with a good flush mechanism and low flow toilets are just fine. Saves lots of water.
Have you considered offering a credit for customers like me that watch usage and try to figure out ways to save. It would be a one time credit to encourage consumers to make the switch and everyone wins. The credit would only apply to replacing larger things like toilets or shower heads or faucets. Something to think about as everyone wins.
I agree , FP&L is an excellent utility co. I have worked with them in the trade and thier employees are top notch pros. Using common sense and a little modern tech., my bill is very low and consistent.
because my economy is veneficia
Why not recommend battery backup for small electronics. Not only will a good quality backup deliver clean regulated power but it will also protect against brownouts.
I have APC UPS 1500′s on all my electronics, especially our HDTV’s. They ‘condition’ the voltage/keep it at the same level with an inverter/battery backup. I have the ‘Surge Shield’ on our meter but it is minimally effective at best. I have a 17kw backup generator for most of the house during storms/lightning (which hits the ‘grid’ regularly). A 20 or 25kw would run the entire house (stove/oven and dryer). We got it after being without power for 2 weeks in 2004 from hurricane Jeanne. I don’t regret buying it for one second.
Just a little correction for the surge protector article: .33 kilovolts is not 33 volts, but 330 volts.
9/9/12
Because of the confidence we have in FPL we
prefer to pay you to install and warranty the in house surge protectors to protect our
T.V sets
computers
modems
phones
alarms
etc.
I feel I am dealing with a great company in FPL
and want you to give us the option of complete electrical protection,
Thank you.
Elliot Glanz
i am pleased with FPL. AND SIGNED UP FOR SAVINGS BY YOU CLOSING DOWN SEVERAL HOURS A DAY. THANK YOU. Annamarie Sorrentino
John
I think you have a typo. Lowest clamping voltage should be 330 volts or .33 kilovolts.
Mike L.
Thank you so very much for your question on surge protectors and FPL, for your answer.
I have been meaning to check this out, and never seem to get around to it.
I did purchase a few indoor ones, and than goodness i have the right ones.
Thanks again, have a great day.
33 volts is not .33 kilovolts, it’s .033 kilovolts. I think you mean 330 volts. If it were 33 volts it would clamp the standard line voltage.
The article should have said Clamping Voltage is 330 volts = 0.33 kilovolts, not 33 volts.
0.33KV = 330V, not 33 as above
you may also want to recommend an amperage that is useful for whole house protection
great question and pratical advice!
Great article . Will definitely apply it to my website
You should inform people that if you have the FPL installed hubble for your generator the surge protector can’t beinstalled on the meter as I requested and found out when guy came to install it.
Thanks
Good, but regarding computers, missing valuable info. To protect from lightning strikes, EVERYTHING connected to your computer MUST be connected to the surge protector/UPS. That includes the printer power cord, modem power cord, and any ethernet cables. Lightning can and will enter through any available connection. Make sure that nothing is connected to your computer that is not connected to the surge protector.
To all our eagle-eyed energy experts out there who caught the typo in our recent blog – thank you! We have corrected the post.
-John McComb (FPL Energy Author)
I have said this for years to use UPS to protect against power surges. FL is the worst I have experienced; they occur monthly and NO storms at the time either. I have 2 UPS for electronics, for the cost of 50-60.00 is well worth the piece of mind and headaches dealing with insurance company’s. I call power strips glorified extension cords. I use them, but turn them off when not in use. The strip used energy 24/7 besides. SO flip the switch off before bed or leaving the house. I saved 15.00 the first month I started flipping the switch to OFF. THKS for the info on UL label, will have to look closer now. Karen B
Make it simple, a surge protector that can save energy and money where do I sign
THANKS FOR THE GREAT INFO ON SURGE PROTECTION DEVICES. IT DEFINITELY PUT THINGS INTO PERSPECTIVE FOR ME. I WILL SURELY KEEP AN EYE OUT FOR THE SPECS ON ALL MY PROTECTION DEVICES HERE ON IN!
If the machines are not running and only the control systems are on would it be ok to have surge
Protectors for only that amount of power?